Ski and Snowboard

An independent review from Marie d'Oysonville

Ski / Snowboard > Skiing Overview

Since Dr. Payot introduced skiing in Chamonix at the end of the 19th century, this resort is one of the most famous meeting-point for ski-lovers in France and even in the world.

The domain is about 145 trails, with a total of 140 kilometers (87-½ miles) The skiing in the valley is spread over nine separate hamlets and villages and 13 ski areas: the legendary Grands-Montets, Le Brevent and Vallée-Blanche are some of the best skiing trails you can ever dream of. If you add off-pistes possibilities, the domain is more than 30,000 acres of ski-able terrain. It's not far from other villages and you can escape in Argentière, Les Houches or in the Italian village of Courmayeur, which can satisfy all types of skiers. You won't be obliged to descend the same piste again and again: variety is one of the best assets of this resort. There are 49 lifts both north and south exposed—and with 9,000 feet of vertical at your disposal, you'll have quite a time seeing the views.

Chamonix is a very challenging area in mountain sports. It's not a quiet and monotonous place: it attracts the best skiers, people who really want to challenge themselves, and a lot of foreigners, due to its international renown. It doesn't appeal only to experts, though, as there are nice beginners pistes (Le Tour, La Flégère). Overall however, the atmosphere is more sportive and competitive than family and quiet. It's not the place to stroll on trails looking for chamois or marmots…

The composition of the resort also implies its drawbacks: without a car, it can be painful to go from one little resort to the other even if they're linked by bus, since the traffic can be terrible. Because of its popularity, you'll have to train your patience in the lift queues, especially on the Grand Montets cable car. The last drawback is the price: it's quite expensive and you have to pay a guide for several skiing areas (the Vallée-Blanche for example). But you know what? After the breathtaking scenery, ambience, and skiing quality, it's all utterly worth it.

The pistes are mostly above the tree line, which permits a splendid view over all the Mont-Blanc massif, makes the pistes wild and the ski much more free. Above all, it makes a fabulous off-piste (guides advised).

Ski / Snowboard > Snowboarding

Chamonix is a paradise for snowboarders—board culture is very present and increasing every year.

There's a funpark and half pipe sponsored by Salomon on the Grands-Montets. If you're ready for thrilling challenges, it stages numerous competitions. On the tour, there's a long and perfect terrain for free-riding: a natural half-pipe of one kilometer long (0.625 miles). There are quite a few drags at le Tour and the rest is cable cars, gondolas or chairs, which makes a great lift system for boarders. Watch out on the Vallée Blanche, it's flat in places and very long. And for serious boarders, possibilities for free-riding are endless. Chamonix is a free-riding heaven, with outstanding boarding and off-piste possibilities, but perhaps a bit worse during the spring season because of the quality of the snow.

Special courses are available, in every ski schools of the town. You can dispose for example of snowboard and free-ride stages during three half days for €84 per person ($74). If you’re here in February, you can catch the special Red Bull Snowthrill, an extreme free-ride race.

Ski / Snowboard > Snow Conditions

Because of its elevation, Chamonix has always a good snow average on the top of the mountain. The problem is often on the lowest trails, and more frequently, bad weather forbids utilization of the top lifts. At 2,000 meters/6,578 feet, the snowfall average is around 100 centimeters (33 feet) in December, 160 centimeters (52 feet) in January, 185 centimeters (61 feet) in February, 220 centimeters (72 feet) in March, 170 centimeters (56 feet) in April.

On Argentière, the north-facing slopes have good snow until May; the Col de Balme above Le Tour sports a snowy location even in the late season. On Le Brevent or La Flégère, the south-facing slopes often suffer for warmth, and runs to the resort are then closed. Chamonix uses 54 snowmakers on smaller areas (Planards, Glacier du Mont-Blanc) and on the Bochard piste on Les Grands-Montets. Many of the beginner areas need snow cover to be operational.

The trails can be icy when they are based on glaciers (Grands-Montets, Vallée-Blanche) during the early season, but the average snowfall allows a delicious powder most of the time. It's important to be careful of avalanche risks, though the radio will always be spouting off information and advisories. Be sure to be with somebody who knows where and when to go, and don't attempt foolish and dangerous adventures.

Ski / Snowboard > Lifts

The Chamonix lifts are mostly organized in seven lift areas that correspond to the ski areas: Aiguille du Midi, Les Grands Montets, La Flégère, Le Brevent, Les Houches, and Le Tour with a total of 49 lifts. With 19 draglifts, 16 chairs and 13 cable cars, among others, the system has a capacity of 51,262 people per hour. Since Chamonix is one of the first and oldest resorts of the Alps, the system isn't really that ultra modern or high-tech, but it is safe and quick enough.

Due to the resort's popularity, you'll have to be prepared for the French queues, which typically consist of disorganized crowds shoving each other around with little to no patience.

The cable car of the Aiguille du Midi may be 20 minutes long, but it's really worth the trip, since you have a wonderful view at 3,842 meters (12,605 feet) of Mont Blanc and then descend the 22 kilometers (14 miles) of Vallée Blanche. The tram of Montenvers can bring you down to the village if there isn't enough snow at the bottom of the piste, which allows it to be descended during the whole winter season.

It's worth the queue for the Grands Montets (3,275 meters/10,722 feet) and Le Brevent (modern six-seater gondola), because they offer the best ski trails of the valley. Fortunately, there's a new lift system on Les Bochards (you won't have to wait more than 10 minutes, not as in the old days…), and a new 50-person cable car from the Brevent to the Flégère.

The summer is a bit more mellow; there are only two lifts open for skiing and one kilometer of slope on the Mer de Glace. However, other lifts are open for summer activities (hiking, walking, tanning…).

Ski / Snowboard > Rentals

Chamonix has an old mountaineering and alpine tradition, so you can find all the professionals you need with a large range of high-tech equipment here. Because of the ski level and all the possibilities offered by the valley, all sports shops have to prepare themselves with brand new, modern equipment. Competition is serious between the more than 20 principal mountain shops, and it won’t be a problem to find places where lines aren’t too long. All ski levels can find what you need, from the beginners’ to the carving and freeride skis. Bindings are set with a professional system and safety is always guaranteed.

Rental places are definitely friendly to foreigners (a lot of them work in the resort); Chamonix lives partly from international tourism, and people here are generally gracious, and appreciating cultures of all kinds.

Prices don’t fluctuate throughout the season and discounts are available for groups, families, or faithful clients. All stores accept credit cards. For more information, you can contact the tourist office. Some rental places are open for summer skiing.

The Snell Sport shop typically has the best in high-tech and modern equipment, sporting quality and quantity in their wares. Advanced skiers and boarders can’t go wrong here, and sellers are all very friendly and competent.

Ski / Snowboard > Lessons Schools

There are 10 principal guide companies and ski schools in Chamonix, offering all types of courses and activities you can imagine. Here you can find the best guides, many of whom were born and raised under the shadow of the Mont Blanc. They’ll know how, when, and where to go, which mountain restaurants are worthy, and where the chamois are hidden. The two main ski schools are the ESF (École du Ski Français) and Ski Sensations (especially for English language natives). Prices are competitive at both schools.

Private courses are available for one to five people for one or two hours for novices at any hour of the day, half or full day, from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

There are also adult and junior group courses (13 years or older) for skiing and snowboarding for four hours a day (at about €130/$121 per week), adapted to every level. Additional classes are available during mid-term French school holidays (February through early March) because of the crowd during this period.

For people who want good skiing and lots of fun there are little groups called Ski-Passion, comprised of a handful of people, which are very homogeneous and only for higher levels. For those who want to challenge themselves, racing and competition courses are offered in elite courses of 10 people, as well as for slalom training and “godille clinic.”

Instructors cover every discipline here—ski, snowboard, telemark, parabolic, snowshoeing, and so on; while French is the language of choice, most of them will be fluent in English as well.

Apart from these ski schools, the guide companies can also propose a lot of exciting mountain cocktails: ski trips of five to six days, raids to go to summits or undiscovered lands, snowboarding or skiing off-piste, heliskiing from Switzerland or Italy, special tours in the Vallée Blanche—all to be consumed with or without moderation.

Finally, there is a special tour des pistes for English speaking guests, which can show you around the valley and help you find the best snow. Foreigners are definitely welcome.

Ski / Snowboard > Trails > Beginner

Don’t worry: Chamonix doesn’t consist only on impossible walls of snow. Beginners won’t be neglected: 49 percent of the trails are suitable for them, and there are some nice bunny slopes to boot. (Greens are the easiest trails, followed by blues.) For the very first timers, the nursery slopes at La Vormaine, Les Chosalets, Les Planards and Le Savoy are perfect: no dangerous teenagers or speed addicts.

Le Tour, at the top end of the valley, is an ideal place for novice snow surfers with its long blue and green runs, it’s the easiest resort Chamonix has to offer, with only one chair lift (the other being “tire-fesses”). The only problem is that it’s always exposed to the sun, which can make the snow very slushy. Fortunately, this area benefits of a high snow fall during all winter. In Argentière, beginners usually start on the Chosalets, conveniently situated near the Panda ski kindergarden. The Planards and Glacier du Mont-Blanc lifts both have snowmaking, so you can ski on the bottom of the mountain even when the snow comes to lack, but it’s only a two runs resort, just good enough for beginners. Les Houches offers very easy trails too, but the snow is often icy due to the exposure of the mountain. The Brevent has a good number of easy runs for beginners, and the snow is good, even in late season.

One of the drawbacks is that beginner slopes are separated from the rest: it can disturb the transition to real runs and make lunch meetings quite hard. You’d better learn ski in a more quiet and adapted resort and come in Chamonix when you’ll be able to appreciate its high-mountain marvels.

Ski / Snowboard > Trails > Intermediate

Chamonix is a paradise for intermediate skiers: quality, quantity, and variety, divided into five ski areas, with 500 kilometers (312½ miles) of pistes available on the full lift pass, all with an excellent range of high altitude blue and red runs. The total makes 39 percent of trails suitable for intermediate skiers.

For the less bold, the two areas at the extremities of the valley (Les Houches and Le Tour) offer cruising blues and reds. In Les Houches, the slopes of Prarion and Bellevue are gentle tree-lined blue and red runs, without any traps or bad surprises, ideal to warm your legs and improve your style.

For the boldest skiers, the three main areas are: Les Grands-Montets, Le Brevent and La Flégère. Le Brevent offers easy trails, except perhaps the famous red “Mur du Brevent” (“Brevent’s wall”), but there’s now a blue trail swiveling around it. La Flégère consists in a mix of blue and red, with long pistes that can be tiring. Les Grands-Montets attracts a lot of people and is often crowded because of its quality, it lies at the limit between intermediates and experts.

Last but not least: if the weather is good, take a guide and try the descent of the Vallée-Blanche; the slope is accessible for good intermediates, and it’s quite worth the outing. The scenery is breathtaking, but don’t be too adventurous, it can be dangerous…

Ski / Snowboard > Trails > Advanced

Chamonix offers undoubtedly some of the most impressive challenges to be found for expert skiers, with 12 percent of the pistes. This is really the place to be for experienced skiers, above all those who are keen on off-piste. Expert pistes are red and black ones.

Les Grands-Montets offers all types of skiing, like moguls with La Herse, a red-black run of five kilometers (3,125 miles) of moguls, or La Pendant, a big mix of rock cliffs and powder. The off-piste is wonderful: try the mythical Pas de Chevre that leads to the Mer de Glace. The black pistes Point de Vue and Pylones are long and delightful for people who need to be stimulated. The most part being made on a glacier, pistes are large but can be dangerous or icy, be sure to have a reliable guide. The off-piste seems also endless, with so many ways to take from the summit.

At Le Brevent, the off-piste is pretty limited, but nice behind the Cornu lift. Or you can also make a show under the lifts where there are some off-pistes corridors, but very narrow and steep. At La Flégère there are several good off-pistes routes like the Combe Lachenal. From the higher point of Le Tour, you can escape over the back towards Vallorcine or into Switzerland.

As for the Vallée-Blanche, there are a myriad of ways to conquer it. Watch your step, though: three quarters are on the glacier of the Mer de Glace, so mind the 150-meter (492-foot) crevices. Don’t attend it with a bad weather.

Ski / Snowboard > Trails > Competition

There are two racing trails in Chamonix. First on the Brevent is Le Stade (slalom), and on the Tour you’ll find La Piste du Stade (slalom and giant).

Every day during holiday periods you can have a great challenge on the slalom training stadium with timed runs. Test yourself at slalom (chamois) or Giant Slalom (Fleche). They aren’t excellent trails, but are challenging enough for a good skier.

Ski / Snowboard > Other Skiing > Night Skiing

If you want to ski under the floodlights and discover the huge mountain by night, go to the Bossons massif, one of the valley-floor areas. Night skiing is possible here on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday nights for €9 ($8), but with only one red piste to descend. And remember: no more sun equals no more warmth, just you the snow and the night, so be prepared for new sensations.

Ski / Snowboard > Other Skiing > Heliskiing

Are you a really aggressive skier? Looking for serious excitement? Helicopters can drop you on a summit in Italy or Switerland and let you go down deep, untouched snow areas. Since helicopters are forbidden on the French massifs, you can go to the valley of Valgrisenche in Italy (one hour from Chamonix), which is 28 kilometers (17.5 miles) long, and enjoy 20 other points of deposit with about 100 itineraries—one of the best areas for such adventure in the world. There are also a lot of possibilities in Switzerland, just on the other side of the mountain.

The Mont Blanc area is famous for its fabulous off-pistes: Massif of Trient and Tour, Glacier du Midi and des Grands, Petit Combin, Dolent, Mont Rose…renowned pistes or hidden ones, every guide and company has its own secrets. No queues, no crowds—just immaculate slopes and excellent skiing to enjoy.

It’s about €183 ($171) per person for one deposit and €274 ($257) for two deposits. Available from January to May depending on the weather and snow conditions, heliskiing is always a little less appealing during spring.

Ski / Snowboard > Other Skiing > Cross-Country

Chamonix-Mont Blanc is one of the best places in France to practice cross-country skiing at. This is due to the excellent snow conditions and the beauty of the landscapes. Cross-country skiing actually became an Olympic discipline during the games that took place in Chamonix in 1924.

There are 11 resorts in the valley that offer cross-country trails: Vallorcine, Chamonix-Argentière, Les Houches, Les Contamines Montjoie, Megève, Combloux, Cordon, St. Gervais, Praz sur Arly, Plassy-Plaine Joux, and Servoz. Most of these offer both traditional and skating trails that are accessible for all levels. Access to the resorts for one day is not expensive, but if you are planning on going every day then you’ll save money by buying a weekly ticket. Young people usually get a discounted price and in Les Houches those under 16 ski free.

The closest resort is Chamonix/Argentière. There are green, blue, red, and black loops, and with 42 kilometers (26 miles) of trails, skiers from beginners to experts can escape from the crowded downhill skiing resorts here. All the trails are very well prepared but by the end of the season (in the spring), the snow coverage is poor. Don’t forget to bring some bread and a healthy serving of Tomme de Savoie” (one of the several local cheeses) to have a picnic in one of the many wonderful places you’ll find on your way. Allow yourself a bit of a rest, either sunbathing on a rock or sitting by the shade of one of the many pine trees.

It is better to use a car to go to the other resorts, even though there are buses running from Chamonix to the cross-country skiing tracks. Intermediate and advanced skiers will probably have a great time in Les Houches, where 34-½ of the 35 kilometers (21 miles) are blue and red loops. Others might prefer the variety offered at Vallorcine or at Les Contamines-Montjoie.

If you’re an expert, then you should consider driving to the neighboring resort of Megève (just a few miles from Chamonix), where you will enjoy 15 kilometers (10 miles) of black trails.

There are several ski schools in the Mont-Blanc valley that offer cross-country skiing lessons for both adults and children. Discover new trails and make friends by participating in one of the outings that take place throughout the season. In December, a big night outing is organized in Chamonix.

Ski / Snowboard > For Children > Ski / Winter Activities

The Mont Blanc valley is a great area for families, as there are plenty of ski schools and private instructors that provide ski lessons for children at reasonable prices. Among the ski schools of the valley, the Ecole du Ski Français (ESF) is the most famous as well as one of the most reliable.

There are discounts for children on lift tickets in most of the resorts, and those under four years ski for free. There is also a wide range of activities other than skiing that are offered in the resorts around Chamonix, as well as in the town itself. The vast majority of the resorts have daycare centers near the pistes. Moreover, almost all of these nurseries have English-speaking staff, since they cater a lot of British tourists.

The already well-known Panda Club located in the lovely little village of Argentière (about eight kilometers (five miles) further along the valley from Chamonix) welcomes children from six months to 12 years old. Qualified and experienced nannies that are never short of ideas for non-skiing activities and games will take care of the little ones between six months and three years of age.

There is a skiing kindergarten for those from three to 12 years old, located about five minutes from the beginners’ slope Le Savoy. Children can go to the Panda Club on a half- or full day basis. Lunch is included in the price for full days. The only drawback is that the location of the center is not very convenient for parents who go skiing in the other resorts around Chamonix. During the summer, the Panda Ski Club becomes a pony club.

There is also a municipal day nursery in Chamonix open from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. on weekdays. It’s quite cheap but absolutely necessary to book in advance. The library lends board games and your children are free to come here to play with friends or borrow books. There is always someone present to keep an eye on the little ones and answer their questions.

It’s also possible to have a nanny or baby-sitter come to your accommodation to mind your children; ask either the Tourism Office, the staff at the Panda Club, or at one of the day nurseries, as they will be able to tell you who to contact.

The Tourism Office will also be happy to tell you what kind of excursions to go on with your children when you don't feel like skiing.

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